Kept
Sets in progress
Recently added
Scan a card
photograph
parallels & autos
Sets & checklists
Help
how the vault worksGetting around fast
Ctrl K (⌘K on a Mac) opens the jump box from anywhere: type a player, a set, or a view name and press Enter — it searches your whole vault, not just the page you're on. In the vault with a card open, ↑ and ↓ step through your cards with the details following alongside. In the photo viewer, pinch or double-tap to zoom (scroll wheel on a desktop), drag to look around while zoomed, and swipe sideways — or press ←/→ — to turn the card over.
Scanning well
Front photo required; the back is optional but worth it — it is how the scanner confirms card numbers, serial numbers, and autographs. Cards in penny sleeves and toploaders scan fine; avoid hard glare across the face. You don't have to wait between cards: press Identify & Add and keep going — the bench clears immediately and identification catches up behind you.
Ripping a box?
Press Start rip session first and tell it the box type. Every scan is filed to the session, the box type helps the scanner name foil finishes (many are exclusive to one box style), and the Rips view keeps per-box stats afterward.
What the scan result means
Identified · confidence is the scanner's read of the card — check the player, number, and set like you'd check a teammate's work; everything is editable afterward from the Vault.
"Finish not confirmed" means the scanner could see shine but could not tell the plain card from a foil parallel — usually from a front-only photo. That is honesty, not an error: the card still files to its checklist row, with the caveat shown. If you know the finish (you opened the box, after all), set it in the editor's Parallel field.
A named parallel files to the base row too — checklists only publish base rows, so your Gold 97/99 counts against the row it's a finish of, serial number and all. The one card the vault won't guess about is a serial number with the finish still unconfirmed: an unnamed /99 tier is exactly what fakes chase, so that card waits for you to name the finish in the editor (or link it by hand).
"Set not recognised" — don't panic
On newly released products this is the usual caution, and it says what it means: the set is newer than the scanner's training, so it declines to vouch for a product it has never seen. Nothing about the card itself looked wrong — the scanner says so in its own note. The moment the card links to a row in the checklist library, the caution clears by itself — named foils included, now that they file to the base row. It sticks only when the card can't link — a misread number, an unnamed serial tier, a combo card filed under names the library spells differently — and clears when that's fixed, or from the editor's Authenticity dropdown once you've confirmed the card yourself.
"Authenticity unclear" is the other one, and it is the one to take seriously. Usually it means the scanner saw something physical it didn't like — print quality, wrong stock, REPRINT text, colours wrong for the era. It is also what older scans show when the scanner never recorded why it hesitated, so read its note underneath: that says what it actually saw. Either way no checklist clears it — check the card yourself, then set it from the editor's Authenticity dropdown.
Checklists and linking
Linking a card to its checklist row is what powers set completion, the binder view, and "which cards am I missing". The matcher links automatically when the number, player, set, and year all agree — and deliberately refuses to guess when two rows both fit. For those, open the card and use Choose row…: it shows every row matching the number and player, you pick, done. On a card that is not linked yet, fixing a field (number, year, set name, player, parallel, sport) and saving asks the matcher again by itself, and the save says what it found. A card the matcher linked whose number or year you fix so that its row no longer fits is asked again the same way, and moves if the matcher finds its row; otherwise a save never moves a linked card: use Choose row…, or Let the matcher decide on a row you chose. Re-match on a set does the same for every unlinked card you own in it.
Color and foil parallels of a base card share its row. Inserts are their own checklists. Relics and autos have rows too, when the product's checklist ships them.
Parallels, in plain words
A parallel is the same card in a different finish. For modern Topps flagship (Series 1/2/Update) the vocabulary the scanner uses is:
| What you see | What it's called |
|---|---|
| Smooth glassy rainbow sheen, whole face | Rainbow Foil |
| Coarse multicolor static | Holo Foil |
| Fine, even glitter dots | Sandglitter |
| Large angular mirror facets | Diamante Foil |
| Fine crackle-ice granules | Crackleboard Silver |
| Tiled "AZ" or "FL" logos | Spring Training |
| Serial number on the back | The tier: /2026 Gold, /399 yellow, /250 purple, /150 blue, /99 green, /50–/5 rarer still |
Spring Training is one parallel whichever camp league the logo names. A serial color combines with the texture — green facets are a "Green Diamante Foil" (flagship football spells its facets without the Foil: "Diamante", "Green Diamante", "Diamante Pink"). Other product lines (Chrome, Bowman, Panini) use their own words; "Refractor" belongs to Chrome, not flagship.
Prices
Estimates anchor to what cards actually sell for, not asking prices, and modern base cards are honestly cheap — most sell under a dollar raw. Why this price? on any card shows the reasoning; Refresh price re-checks the market. Estimates are a guide for sorting keepers from bulk, not an appraisal.
Selling on eBay
Four steps. Nothing goes live on eBay until you press Publish to eBay and say yes.
- Connect your eBay account, once. In Settings, under Selling, Connect eBay takes you to eBay's own sign-in page to approve Kept; Kept never sees your eBay password. Then Set up selling shows the shipping, payment and return policies it will file on your eBay account, and files them only when you say OK. Fill in Seller settings on the same tab: where you ship from, your handling time, whether you take returns, what postage and eBay's fees cost you, and what you ship in. A draft works out what a sale leaves you from those numbers, its description states your returns terms, and each listing you publish carries the package's weight and size, so eBay's label page starts at the right rate. Change your returns terms later and press Check selling setup: it shows what eBay's return policy says and brings it in line, so the policy and your listings agree.
- Draft a listing. Press Draft listing under a scan result or on a card in the vault, or tick several cards in the vault and press Generate listings. It writes the eBay title, item specifics, description and a price from the card's own details, with Best Offer on. Read any warnings it shows, and press change price if the price is not yours.
- Publish. Publish to eBay under the draft, or on its row in the Sell tab, asks once, naming the title and the price, then puts the listing live on your account. The row then shows the eBay item number, which opens the listing, and End on eBay takes it down.
- When it sells, press mark sold on its row, or download the orders report from eBay Seller Hub (Orders, then Download) and bring it in with Import eBay file on the Sell tab, which records the real sale price. Kept does not hear about a sale from eBay on its own yet.
Not connected? eBay CSV on the Sell tab saves your drafts as a file for Seller Hub's bulk upload, and mark listed records a listing you put up yourself.
Prices are estimates, not appraisals. You are the seller: the listing, the buyer, the postage and any return are between you and the buyer, under eBay's rules.
Credits
Each scan spends credits (identification runs a vision model — that's the cost). Your balance sits in the header. Repricing spends too; browsing, linking, and editing are free.
Sharing
Cards are Only me unless you say otherwise — per card, in the editor: Friends, or anyone who can browse your public page. Invite friends from Settings; trades and the show board build on that.
Something looks wrong?
Use report a problem at the top of the page. It attaches a snapshot of exactly what you were looking at (layout only — never your password), which is usually the whole diagnosis. Answers come back to Settings → Your problem reports, with a badge when something new arrives.
Terms and privacy
What you agree to by using Kept, and what it stores about you and your cards — where it goes, for how long, and how you delete it — are written down in plain English: the Terms of Service and the Privacy Policy. Both are linked from the sign-in page and from the foot of this one.
The link that confirms your account is sent here. Nothing else is: no newsletters, no notices.
Reprice the vault
Re-values every card that isn't sold with current pricing (price checks are left out; refresh one from its own page): one AI call and one credit per card, one card at a time. It asks before it starts, stops cleanly if you run out, and each card keeps its old values in its price history.
Rips
How a box reads on the Rips tab, and on the scan bench while it is open.
A chase hit gets its banner either way.
Seller settings
What a sale costs you. A draft shows what it would leave after these. The label is yours to buy whoever pays for shipping: set a "buyer pays" box above to 0 for free shipping and the whole label comes out of the sale. The numbers here are the rates as of October 2026; check them against a recent sale of your own.
What you ship in. Written on each listing you publish from here, so eBay's label page starts at the real weight and size instead of 1 x 1 x 1 in. A listing already live keeps whatever eBay has for it.
Envelope · a letter, sent eBay Standard Envelope: up to 3 oz and 11.5 x 6.125 x 0.25 in
Ground Advantage package · a bubble mailer or a box
Learned: printed signatures
What is this?
Signatures the scanner now knows are part of the card design, not autographs — learned when you uncheck AUTO on a misread card, and fed into every future scan. Remove an entry and it forgets.
Friends
What is this?
Each card has a tier: Private is yours alone, Friends adds the people below, Public adds everyone. Who can reach your page at all is a separate setting — that's Your page, next.
Trades
What is this?
Offer your cards for someone else's. The app records the deal — it never moves cards or touches money; the two of you make the swap. Mark a card Available for trade in its editor to let others ask for it.
Card shows
What is this?
Conventions, expos and weekend meets. RSVP so friends know you'll be there. The board is public at /shows — anyone can browse it, no account needed.
Accounts
Admin can set limits, reset passwords, unlock accounts and grant admin. Admin cannot browse anybody's collection — the card fence has no browsing exception — but Data repair below can inspect a single card by id (redacted: no value, notes or storage) to fix a stuck record. Everything on this screen, the inspections included, is written to the log at the bottom.
| Account | Cards | AI today |
|---|
Invites
Registration is invite-only, so this list is the door. A code is single-use. Revoking expires it now — the row stays, so who was invited stays honest.
- Choose an expiry above and press + new code. It appears at the top of the list, and the message at the bottom of this panel rewrites itself to carry it.
- Read the message, change anything you like, then press Open in mail app — your mail opens with it already written, from your own address. Put theirs in the To line and send. Copy message does the same for a text or a DM.
- On the row itself: link copies just the invite URL, copy copies the bare code for reading down the phone, and use aims the message at an older code instead of the newest.
- They open the link and land on Create account with the code already filled in, then choose their own username and password. You never see or set it.
- The row flips to used by … once they're in. If they never use it, press revoke — one code is one person, so don't hand a spent one to somebody else.
Site notice
One line across the top of the app and the landing page, for everyone, signed in or not. It takes effect at once with no deploy, and shows on an open app the next time it comes back to the front. Plain text, up to 280 characters. Posting and taking it down are written to the log.
Data repair
By card id only — there is no browse. The card view is redacted: no value, cost, notes or storage. Every inspection and fix is written to the log below with your reason, because reading someone's card is itself the exposure.
Problem reports
Filed from the report a problem link in the header. The snapshot preview is neutralised — scripts and event handlers stripped, outbound fetches blocked, rendered sandboxed — so images won't load; the layout is the evidence. A snapshot shows everything on the reporter's screen, including content other people shared into their view, so treat it accordingly. Opening a report writes an issue.inspect row to the log below.
Admin log
Every privileged act, newest first. Append-only: nothing in the app edits or deletes these rows.
Recorded boxes
Start one from the Scan tab when you open a box; every card scanned until you press End is filed to it.
How rips work
Start one from the Scan tab when you open a box; every card scanned until you press End is filed to it (but for one scanned as Wishlist or Price check, which is a card you want or looked up and not one you pulled), and the box's product and format ride each identification — parallel families are format-exclusive (Mega ships Crackle, Hobby ships Rainbow Foil), so the box narrows the finish the scanner most often cannot name. Value is what the box's cards say they're worth today, beside what they said at the rip — a reprice moves the first number and leaves the second standing, which is the trend. Set the box cost on a row and the value reads against what you paid. Finish unknown counts the cards it still couldn't call — plain or parallel? — and turns red once that's half the box; opening a card and setting its finish settles it. The count, the pace and the finish unknown sit under Stats at the top; Value shows the money. A box that holds a card twice names it: tap the name to see the copies. With Scorecard on (Settings › Account), a line under each box says how many of its cards were new to a set (the first copy of a checklist row you ever scanned), how many rookies, and how many chase hits — numbered to 99 or fewer, an autograph or relic, or a parallel the box's odds call rarer than one per box — and the scan bench keeps the same tally while the box is open; a chase hit gets its own banner either way. An open card's Box line moves it to another box or takes it out of one, and that never deletes it. Deleting a session releases its cards back to the timing view below; the cards themselves are never touched.
| Box | Opened | Value | Cards | Pace | Mostly | Finish unknown |
|---|
Inferred sittings
Cards scanned with no box open, grouped by when you scanned them.
How sittings work
Cards scanned before recorded sessions existed — or with no box open — grouped by when you scanned them. Derived and read-only: turning the dial changes the grouping, never the data. Value reads the same as above — today's estimates beside the rip-day ones — just with no box cost to judge against. Finish unknown means the same here as above: cards the scan couldn't call plain-or-parallel, red past half the sitting. As recording takes over, this table shrinks; that is the success condition, not a loss.
| When | Value | Cards | Pace | Mostly | Finish unknown | Format hints |
|---|
Rip party
several collectors, one tableEveryone at the party sees everyone’s pulls land — and what they’re worth — on one screen, until the party ends. Each of you rips your own box into your own vault; joining is what says “show the table.” Everyone who joins becomes friends.